Physical Profiling for Climbing
To fully complement the technique work we do at Onsight Coaching, we’ve developed a series of physical profiling products to help climbers achieve their full potential. Whether this is further highlighting technique issues, tactical issues or fitness and strength and conditioning requirements to achieve the next level.
These three products can be combined to create a powerful screening and profiling tool or individually to highlight weaknesses and develop a corrective strategy to improve your climbing.
This is a must for all climbers interested in seeing what is going on ‘under the bonnet’. This 19 minute incremental test takes you from your warm-up grade through to your onsight grade, monitoring your heart rate, while your coach observers movement and tactics throughout the test. This is combined with a finger strength assessment to give a clear indicator on how best to format your climbing training to take you to the next level. This assessment is based on a cohort of climbers operating (onsighting) between 5+ to 7b and allows you to compare your fitness levels with similar graded climbers. The only requirements are a centre with Autobelays.
This nine point test looks in detail at the physical attributes required for climbing performance, whether mobility, stability or strength related. Aimed at those serious about training and improving it gives a clear breakdown of what your weaknesses are and what you need to work on.
Functional Movement Screen (FMS)
The FMS seven point test documents movement patterns that are key to normal function. The FMS looks to identify functional limitations and asymmetries. If these go unchecked they can affect physical conditioning and training and hence performance. This test aims to set a base level of functional movement on which to develop your performance based training and climbing skills. This test is key for all those involved in sports long term and wishing to maximise their performance. You can learn more about Functional Movement Screening here.