Performance Climbing Coach: Jon Redshaw

As a performance climbing coach with over 15 years of climbing experience in all major disciplines.  Climbing up to 8a sports, 7C boulder, E4 trad and competing regionally.

Those 15 years has taken my climbing all the over world with routes and boulders in almost every continent and almost every rock type and style.  A firm believer in always consolidating my climbing and technique, I’ve climbed well over 2000 routes and more boulders with a significant portion being over 7a sports and 7A bouldering.

As a professional climbing coach I’m a GB Development Squad Coach and GB Team Coach / Official for international competitions where I have coached at World Cups and Junior European Youth Cups.  On a 1:1 basis I’ve trained and coached youth climbers up to the British Team and had regular finalists and podiums at the Youth Climbing Series in Ratho and at British Youth Open events and Championships.  With adults I’m just as comfortable training those pushing 8a on their latest projects to those in their first weeks of climbing, cementing the key techniques to let them progress and enjoy the sport.

 

Technique

My technique approach is progressive and detailed, based on personal experience and both the Neil Gresham Master Class Academy (MCA) approach and Mountain Training (MTA) approach.

This approach solidifies the foundation techniques then builds the advanced techniques on top of this.  Leading to a thorough understanding of climbing movement.  This includes advanced parkour styles of climbing seen in modern competitions.

With a keen eye for detail and experience of thousands of moves I can identify weakness and work on perfecting your movement to help you progress your climbing.

For more performance climbing coaching details of how we can improve your technique please look at our coaching options.

Tactics

After technique this is often the most important area to work on, whether route reading, speed, clipping or breathing and psychology.

This is an area that opens up the grades to many climbers.  My experience of onsighting and redpointing, as well as working and flashing hard boulder problems are key to my coaching of this area.

My academic studies of psychology as part of my Sports Science BSc and working on tactics with some of the top climbers in the South East both in competitions and on rock, help me understand every individual’s strengths and weaknesses.  From this develop a strategy for each individual.

All our indoor sessions cover climbing tactics, but why not book onto one of our outdoor workshops and apply those skills to rock!

 

Training

As a fully qualified Strength & Conditioning Coach I’m more than comfortable advising on the training side of climbing as well. This can consist of everything from individual climbing training programs, long term athlete development programs, fingerboard training, campus training to full perodised plans to reach specific goals and targets.

Training sessions are best combined with technique and tactics analysis to ensure you get the most from the training plan.

Combined with a host of analytical tools such as the Lattice Assessment we can evaluate your individual requirements depending on your fitness and strength levels and goals.  Then design the perfect training program for you.

Are training methodology is support by our work with leading coaching and training providers such as Cafe Kraft, MCA, Lattice, Strength and Conditioning Education and MTA.  We also lead the way in injury prevention in climbing ensuring you’re training with the correct intensity, volume and posture to keep the risk of injury to a minimum.

For more details on what we can do to help your training why not book a physical profiling session or start one of our i-climb training programs.

Nutrition

After Technique, Tactics & Training; Nutrition is often the link we miss.  Being able to support your activity with the best diet to promote health and the right nutrition to fuel your training and recovery.  My nutritional approach is based on an MSc in Nutrition and continuous research into the optimum diet for athletes.  You won’t be put on the latest fad diet here, just given solid information to help you make the right choices and achieve your goals.

 

Onsight Coaching trains and works with the following organisations.